Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
